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A new gastropub in Highland Park is translating Korean drinking food for a Northeast Los Angeles crowd, blending family roots with regional influences to create something timely for the city’s evolving dining scene. The menu leans into anju—small plates designed for sharing with alcohol—making the spot worth a visit whether you’re after cocktails or a casual dinner.
Located in the former Otoño space, Yi Cha is the project of chef-owner Debbie Lee, whose background—born of North Korean family traditions and a Southern U.S. upbringing—shapes a compact menu that nods to both heritage and Southern California’s immigrant food cultures. Bartenders pour inventive drinks that riff on Korean flavors while locals gravitate to the bar for a relaxed night out.
What to order
- Anju platter — A curated lineup of snacks: seasoned barbecue nuts, crisp king oyster mushroom chips, and house-cured beef and fish jerky. It balances salty, sweet, and umami notes, ideal for sharing over drinks.
- Bone marrow–infused corn cheese — A rich, creamy crowd-pleaser. The added marrow gives the classic Korean comfort dish extra depth; try it with a fizzy makgeolli or one of the bar’s citrus-forward cocktails.
- Korean fried chicken — Crisp wings tossed in a gochujang-tinged buffalo glaze, served with a tangy, house-made “K-ranch” for dipping.
- Hangover stew — A hearty one-pot of pork, potatoes, ramen noodles, rice cakes and greens finished with melted cheese; the chef’s riff on gamjatang that doubles as a satisfying main for the table.
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The drinks list reinforces the anju focus. Try the dongchimi-inspired “Radish to Riches” for a briny, refreshing palate cleanser, or the bright “Jeju Sunrise,” which pairs lychee-infused vodka with citrus and pomegranate notes for a sweeter, fruit-forward sip.
The atmosphere
Inside, playful neon signs and a kaleidoscopic mural give the narrow, high-ceilinged dining room a lively, contemporary edge. A tucked-away alcove at the rear is dressed to recall a street-stall alley—a subtle nod to traditional pojangmacha culture—while still feeling like a modern neighborhood bar.
Noise levels trend lively but manageable; the layout encourages bar seating and casual groups. It’s the kind of place that works for a relaxed date, a post-work drink, or a small celebratory table.
Chef’s finishing touch
Don’t skip dessert: the goguma (sweet potato) pie comes topped with Asian pear crème fraîche and a crunchy chili-peanut brittle, a restrained sweet finish that rounds out the savory-heavy menu.
Why this matters now: as Los Angeles neighborhoods diversify beyond cultural enclaves like Koreatown, places such as Yi Cha show how traditional Korean formats—anjus, pojangmacha inspirations, and communal stews—are being reinterpreted for broader audiences without losing their roots. For diners, that means more accessible, creative expressions of Korean dining across the city.
