Top bites our food editors loved this week: Feb 23 must-try picks

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This week, our dining editors uncovered a handful of standout plates across Los Angeles — from a classic Southeast Asian preparation to a modern Korean carted feast. These picks matter now because they reflect how familiar comfort dishes and inventive communal meals are driving traffic back to neighborhood restaurants as diners seek both value and craftsmanship.

Hainan chicken at Savoy Kitchen — Alhambra

After more than a decade of visits, Kat Thompson still finds herself ordering the same dish at Savoy Kitchen: a tender poached chicken served with rice cooked in chicken fat. The dish’s finishing touch is a set of three sauces — a lightly sweet soy, a shredded-ginger condiment, and a bright, tang-forward chile sauce that cuts through the richness. Opting for dark meat gives the chicken a little more heft and lets the sauces shine.

Why it stands out: precise execution and the interplay of sauces make this a neighborhood benchmark for Hainan-style chicken. 138 E Valley Boulevard, Alhambra, CA 91801. — Kat Thompson, audience editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest

Orange chicken at Broadway Cuisine — Chinatown

Rebecca Roland singled out Broadway Cuisine’s orange chicken after a lively dinner beneath the restaurant’s fluorescent lights. The coating delivers glossy sweetness and a citrus note that reads as bright rather than cloying. It’s the kind of dish that pairs well with banquet-style ordering — the restaurant’s expansive menu ensures there’s something for every group or palate.

The dining room’s communal energy — lids clacking on teapots, plates passed around a lazy Susan — reinforces the dish’s role as a crowd-pleaser rather than a one-off indulgence. 913 N. Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90012. — Rebecca Roland, deputy editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest

Hanjeongsik lunch course at J Korean Restaurant — Koreatown

Matthew Kang describes the hanjeongsik at J Korean as a modern take on a traditional Korean table spread, delivered on a rolling cart. The restaurant, a sibling to Borit Gogae, brought this carted multi-course format to Koreatown with two price tiers: a $30 lunch option and a more elaborate $50 all-day menu featuring premium items like galbijjim and black cod.

The $30 selection still offers great variety. Diners can expect dozens of small plates — grilled salted yellow croaker, old-school bulgogi with broth, grilled deodeok, jeon, bossam, ganjang gejang and a cascade of banchan. Staff will refill side dishes, though main items are served once, encouraging a communal, sampler-style meal that showcases the range of Korean home cooking elevated for a restaurant setting.

210 N. Western Avenue, #103-104, Los Angeles, CA 90004. — Matthew Kang, correspondent, Eater

The loaded potato fritter at Hermon’s — Montecito Heights

At Hermon’s, a savory fritter has been turned into something approaching a love letter to the baked potato. Mona Holmes praises the dish for its layered crunch, generous Parmesan, and surprise pockets of bacon, cream cheese, chives and lemon zest. The result is crispy on the outside, rich and familiar on the inside — an ingredient-forward small plate that rewards sharing.

Hermon’s neighborhood vibe skews intimate but lively; reservations are in demand, though the bar is often more accessible for walk-ins. 5800 Monterey Road, Los Angeles, CA 90042. — Mona Holmes, editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest

  • Hainan chicken — Savoy Kitchen (Alhambra): classic preparation, three sauces; dark meat recommended. Address: 138 E Valley Blvd.
  • Orange chicken — Broadway Cuisine (Chinatown): glossy, citrus-balanced coating; banquet-friendly menu. Address: 913 N. Broadway.
  • Hanjeongsik — J Korean Restaurant (Koreatown): carted multi-course experience; $30 lunch / $50 all-day menu; banchan refills available. Address: 210 N. Western Ave., #103-104.
  • Loaded potato fritter — Hermon’s (Montecito Heights): crispy exterior, rich interior with Parmesan and bacon; lively neighborhood spot. Address: 5800 Monterey Road.

These selections illustrate two current currents in Los Angeles dining: a renewed appetite for well-executed comfort classics and a growing appreciation for communal, value-forward formats. Together they offer a quick tour of how local kitchens are balancing tradition, generosity and craft — and why returning to restaurants feels rewarding right now.

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